Showing posts with label strobe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label strobe. Show all posts

Friday, May 9, 2014

Project365 - Manipulating Light with Gels

Introduction
I really should stop calling this a 365 Project - we've been so busy moving and settling into the new house that I really haven't been able to make time to shoot. I will do my very best to get back to shooting regularly, if not every day !

Pat taught me how to make jam over the past few days. On the first evening, we made ten jars of strawberry jam. I thought it would make a colourful subject for this blog, so I documented the process. The second evening, we made bumbleberry jam. This time I slowed down & thought about what I was doing. I made two changes between the first & second nights.

The Setup

Day 1 - I shot handheld, with my Canon 60D. I wanted a fast lens, so I used my Canon 40mm f2.8 lens, and mounted my Canon 430 EX II flash in the hotshoe.

Day 2 - still handheld with the 60D, but with my Canon 24-105mm f/4 L lens instead. I mounted the flash in the hotshoe, but added a half-density orange gel to correct for the incandescent lighting.

Let's see how the pictures look !

The Photos

Day 1 - no gel:

Here is Pat, cooking the strawberry jam. It's bubbling away so hard, it looked molten ! Notice the yellowish tinge in the appliances & her shirt ! That's the incandescent lighting.

 

 

 

Here we see the yellow tinge, but more pronounced.





Day 2 - 1/2 CTO Gel on the flash

In this photo, the colours are correct. The whites are white - not cream, and the strawberry jam is a brilliant red.

 

 

 

Did I mention we made a dozen jars ? ;-)

 

 

 

 

Lessons Learned

Once again, I need to remember to slow down & plan my shoots. The photos turn out much better when I think through all the components - especially when I think about light temperature !

 

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Project365 - Of Grids and Snoots

Introduction
I managed to collect the components of my Honl speed strap & gels system yesterday. They also make a grid, so I picked one of this up up as well. Grids & Snoots are another form of light modifier for your flash system. They don't change the colour temperature of your flash, instead they focus the beam.

Why would you want to do that ? It allows the photographer to more selectively light the scene. Imagine a photo of a model in a dark room. Perhaps you want to expose the background to look like a black backdrop. That's easily achieved, but you still need to light up the model, to show off contrast and colour. The grid or snoot will help "aim" the light at the models face, while minimizing the spillover onto the background.

 

The Setup

These are some more "goofing around" shots. None of my available models were out of bed yet, and I was getting impatient. A very simple setup, with the Honl 1/8 grid attached to the Canon 430 EX II via the Honl speed strap. The whole shebang is mounted on the hotshoe of my Canon 60D, which has my general purpose 24-105mm f/4 L lens attached. I shot handheld for quick & dirty testing.

 

The Photos

A simple before and after shot. First without the grid, followed by a photo taken with the grid.

Note the even lighting. I used no other light modifier, like a gel, as there was no other ambient light - just the flash at 1/8 power.

 

 

 

For comparison, this photo is shot with the exact same settings, and the grid in place. Note how quickly the light falls off ! The grid directs the flash down a very narrow beam.


 

 

 

Lessons Learned

The use of a grid or snoot allows more creative use of light. It provides an easy way of selectively lighting a small portion of the frame, while quickly allowing the ambient light to light the rest. I see this as very useful for fill-flash and portraiture.

 

Project365 - Flash Light-Modifiers

Introduction
I have been noticing that I am often unhappy with the colours of my photographs when I shoot with a flash. While there is a white-balance setting on my camera, the light from the flash is a harsh white, which competes with other lighting in the photograph. There are a ton of ways to light scenes - you might be outside on a shady or sunny day. You might be interested in taking family portraits in the living room. Or perhaps you are doing commercial work, shooting products or Executives.

Seems that different lighting has different "temperatures" - you get a feel for it when you see pictures that appear to have a cool blue tinge, or ones that have a warm orange glow to them. Colour temperature is measured in terms of degrees Kelvin, and different lighting has different colours associated with them. Primarily, the objective is to get back to an "honest" white colour. Unless, of course, you WANT to create warmer or cooler tones in your photographs !


The Setup

It took me a bit of running around town, but I finally picked up the components I wanted. My preferred supplier, Saneal Cameras in Calgary, had the Honl speed strap at one store, and the gels at another. I bought a grid while I was at it, but we'll discuss that in a separate blog entry. I like the Honl system, because it makes quickly changing between gels and grids easy. The speed strap loops around the flash and then the components attach to the Velcro for a firm grip.

This isn't really a photo shoot, I was just messing around, attaching the gels & seeing what the effects are. I used my handy Canon 60D handheld, and affixed the 24-105mm f/4 L series lens. Around one of my Canon 430 EX II speed lights, I wrapped the Honl speed strap and started expeimenting. I have:

2X full Green gels (CTG ?)

1X full Blue gel (CTB)

1X half Blue gel (CTB)

2X full Orange gel (CTO)

2X half Orange gel (CTO)

2X quarter Orange gel (CTO)

 

The Photos

This photo was taken with a full green gel. If you compare to the other two pictures, everything has a sickly green colour. The kitchen was illuminated only by the light coming in the window. The green gels are to be used to colour-correct for fluorescent lighting.

 

 

This photo has the full blue gel applied to the flash. Can you see the difference ? I bet you can ! Note that the calendar (taking the top left corner) is white.

 

 

This photo was taken with the full orange gel applied to the flash. It's amazing the difference that the different gels make. Note that the wall beside/behind the refrigerator is a light beige colour.

 

 

 

So let's see the colour-correction in action. For the following two photos, I took shots of the window & door off of our dining area. The window and door are brilliant white, while the only light source is the tungsten (incandescent) chandelier overhead.

This photo was shot using the flash, but without any gel to modify the light source. See how there is an dingy yellow cast to it ?




Here is the same scene, only using the full orange gel. The whites look white again !





Lessons Learned

Photography is merely the task of capturing light. But when we need to add external light to a scene, such as a full-flash, we need to be careful to balance our flash against the ambient light in the scene. I will keep experimenting with flash photography, and use the gels accordingly. The aim is to improve the overall appearance of the photos.

 

Sunday, April 6, 2014

Project365 - Two Strobe Portraits

Introduction
In my last installment, I refined my technique for creating a deep black background. In this shoot, I applied that technique, along with two flashes to create more interesting portraits.

 

The Setup

My thought was to set up for a black background, and then light the model from above and to her right. Then, I wanted to place another strobe below and behind her. I was hoping to create a sort of light halo effect. Unfortunately, I didn't get the halo as her hair was as dark as the background. Worse, I had remarkably dark shadows across her face.

I shot the Canon 60D handheld. In the hotshoe was one of the Cactus v5s. I was set for a black background - f/250, ISO 100 and an aperture of 16. One Canon 430EX II was mounted on a Cactus v5 atop a tripod to the kodel's right, while the other was mounted on the trigger and placed on the floor.

The Photos

I am still learning about portraiture. It's not really something I'm very good at, so I was fortunate that my daughter agreed to be my model. It is easy to have a good rapport...

In this first photo, the main light was too powerful. While I had a nice dark background, you couldn't really see any definition between the background and the kodel's hair. And the pose is funny - unnatural, even. It looks like her eyes are pointed in two different directions !








Here, the main light is better, but the secondary is still underpowered. There are very harsh shadows on the models face. Given how pale her skin is, I would've liked to have made her skin tones warmer with a bit of makeup.

 








This one is better. We see a nice cross-lit effect, haloing her cheek and chin. And there is even a hint of catch-lights in her eyes ! But her dark hair is lost in the black background, still.








This is a little bit tighter a shot. I like the effect of the cross-lighting, and the black background.











Lessons Learned

I still need to figure out how to create the halo effect around the model's hair. I suspect my life would be easier shooting at night, when the room is darker to begin with. I'd also like to try to use a reflector to cross-light the face, which would free up the flash for the halo effect !

 

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Project365 - Black Backdrop

Introduction
Today I learned much more about a technique I had attempted once before. Now that I better understood how it worked, I believe I am better able to put it to good use. You see, one of the things that most studio photographers invest in is backdrops. Often large rolls of seamless white or black paper, they allow the subject to be the true focus of the photograph. Who knew I was carrying a black backdrop around in my camera ?!?

It's truly a simple effect involving the use of flash (or sometimes called strobe) photography. Cameras have a maximum speed with which they can sync with the flash to achieve a nicely lit picture, it's usually around 1/250th of a second. Keeping that portion of the exposure triangle still, we next dial down the ISO (the sensitivity of the CCD) to 100. The only thing left that is adjustable is the aperture. All we do is close that down until a picture taken in the ambient light is completely black. Now, anything lit up by the flash will be nicely lit, while the background remains black.

The Setup

Nothing really complicated the Canon 60D, set at f/16, ISO 100, and a shutter speed of 1/250th of a second. The Cactus v5 was mounted in the hotshoe, so I could use the Canon 430EX II off-camera. I placed it on a basic tripod with the other Cactus v5, so I could move the light & the camera around freely.

The Photos

Believe it or not, this is a photo of Pat's flowers on the dining room table. I was setting the ISO, Aperture and shutter speed to get a black background. Got it !



 

Whoops ! The flash was spilling onto the background too much, so I elected to put a snoot on the flash, to more tightly focus the beam.




That's better ! Although you will notice the pen & paper on the tabletop still show up faintly. Now to play around a bit... ;-)



The first few pictures weren't as bright as I would have liked, so they came out a little dull. Time to up the power of the flash a notch, and move the light stand a little closer !




Much better ! I like the contrast created by the various petals on the flowers.


I think this is one of my favorite photographs of the shoot...





Lessons Learned

I thought I really understood this technique, but now with a little better tutorial, I think I know how to nail it whenever I need it. Certainly, implementing the snoot helped narrow the beam, and moving the light stand over to one side helped with not lighting the background. I really like this technique & see myself using it for portrait work.

 

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Project365 - Studio Shoot

Introduction
I have been doing a lot more reading about how to set up a basic photography studio. It usually involves having multiple strobes, umbrellas or big soft-boxes, as well as a host of other tools. Being on a budget, I don't have a lot of those things. So I improvised !
The Setup
My Dad had an old Kodak Brownie Junior camera amongst his keepsakes. I thought it might make an interesting shoot - taking photographs of an antique camera ! Lacking a lightbox (although I have seen a YouTube video on how to make one inexpensively), I decided that a couple of flashes and some white paper carefully arranged on the dining room table might do the trick !
I mounted the Canon 24-105mm f/4 L lens onto my Canon 60D. I also used the Cactus v5 to trigger the flashes. One flash, at 1/4 power, was fitted with my inflatable diffuser & mounted on a small tripod. The other flash at 1/2 power was set to nuke the ceiling with bright light !
The Photos
I took quite a few photos, and the shoot lasted about 45 minutes as I played with my settings to get the sort of shots I wanted. Here are three of the best.
As you can see, the Brownie is a very simple camera, with a fixed lens. There's no focus or aperture settings here !








Note the Kodak name on the hand-strap ! At the bottom of the photograph, you can make out the winding mechanism for the film.




An interior shot highlights the lack of vanes on the shutter. It is a simple procedure to slide the shutter open & then closed. Really, there's not much to this beauty !























Lessons Learned
I enjoyed this shoot. I was faced with a number of challenges, including not being able to properly diffuse the light. But by bouncing one flash off the ceiling & using a diffuser on the other, I was able to properly light the subject without creating any harsh shadows. In a future entry, I want to build the lightbox I saw in the video, and see how well it works (or doesn't) .

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Project365 - Clouds...

Introduction
Years ago, I worked with a Chief IT Architect who had an odd method of making requests: he would take his brow into his hand, close his eyes, and intone the things he wanted us to contemplate. My personal favorite was "Cloud. I'm thinking of cloud..." This Project365 entry is dedicated to Ron.
The Setup
My simplest setup - my trusty Canon 60D, with the Canon 24-105mm f/4 L mounted. All handheld and outdoors - no tripod or strobes.
The Photos
It's still winter in Southern Alberta, so the skies are a steel grey, and the clouds a stark white against it.
The sky was certainly many shades of grey, looking West over the foothills.

The clouds had remarkable contrast.




Just look at the gradient colour in the sky !




The best photo of the lot, in my humble opinion.











Lessons Learned
Great beauty is all around us, even when it isn't brightly coloured ! I'm pleased that I am learning to see this beauty, and share it with the world.

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Project365 - Up Close and Personal !

Introduction
It's eleventy-beelion degrees below zero this weekend, so my photo shoots are being limited to in-studio for a couple of days. This means a lot more technical shoot, using more of my equipment. I have no willing subjects - teenagers sleep a remarkable amount, and the critters tend to get bored & wander away - so I'm shooting flowers. Yep, flowers - they don't give attitude, they don't wander off, and most importantly they are pretty to look at !

The Setup

I shoot with a Canon 60D, and today opted to shoot with my Canon 40mm f/2.8. It has a nice wide aperture, allowing lots of light onto the sensor. I mated it with a 12mm extension tube, to allow me to get a little closer. The whole rig was mounted on a Manfrotto tripod, and I chose to go off-camera with my Canon 430EX II flash using a pair of Cactus v5 triggers.

Here's what the shot started off as. Later I chose to add the external light to accentuate the blooms.





The Photos

Whoops ! I totally blew out the photo by setting the flash at full power with a wide (28mm) beam. Let's try that again ! (Neat effect, though)



Better, but I still have too much light at 1/8 power. It blows out the left side, while creating a strange white rim on the right side. Once more...



 

I dialled down the power to 1/32, but the flash is showing up in the corner. I didn't see it when I shot it, but it is definitely there !




 

This is much better. The flash is low-power, and behind the bloom. It makes the flower positively glow ! I tried to balance the aperture so that the leaves in the background were blurry, while most of the bloom (the stamen is the focal point) is in-focus.




Lessons Learned

I am learning more about studio setup. Using my tripod, flash, triggers and shutter release to create visually interesting images is actually a lot of fun ! I wonder if Pat would let me convert one of the kids rooms into a studio ?!? =D

 

Thursday, February 27, 2014

Project365 - Auto Strobism

Introduction
I have started following a blog which gives an introductory course to Strobism - the advanced use of various types of lights and light modifiers in photography. I started with a course called "Lighting 101". It is a fantastic resource for amateur photographers who want to sharpen their skills with lighting various situations.
In the course of my reading, I came across a challenging situation, in which the author was attempting to light a helicopter mid-flight ! While I haven't got a helicopter of my own to photograph, I thought I would attempt to duplicate the technique.
The Setup
My trusty Canon 60D was mated with the general-purpose Canon 24-105mm f/4 L lens & mounted on the Manfrotto tripod. The flash was mounted with the Cactus v5 remote trigger, so that it could be mounted off-camera.

This nifty little DIY mod is called a "lightbulb". The idea is that the sour cream container acts as a diffuser, and the light is thrown in all directions. In practice, it works very well, and I will likely keep this little mod in my kit.
























The Photos
Here is the basic setup: the "lightbulb" is placed inside the car between the front seats, and when triggered will light the car from inside. As you can see, I substituted Pat's car in the dark garage for the helicopter in the night sky.


This is a step towards the end product - you can see the desired effect. You can ALSO see the lightbulb peeking up above the dash !


I couldn't decide how to set up the shot with only one flash. So I also tried it in the back seat, to see how it looked. I don't like it as well, as the front seats are in deep shadow and you can't see anything but the silhouette of the fuzzy dice. In the perfect world, I'd like to shoot this with two flashes, one in the front, and one in the back.


Here is the final photograph, with the desired effect. Overall, I'm pleased with the effect, although one day I'll re-shoot it with a second flash.









Lessons Learned
Photography is really the craft of manipulating light. I thoroughly enjoyed this shoot, as it is an interesting & creative way to experiment with light. I might later try to reuse the technique, but with more light sources, and even models in the cabin.

Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Project365 - Get Out of the Way !

Introduction
While experimenting with Depth of Field, in a previous post, Pat suggested that using a fork on a plate might be a bit boring ! Instead, she handed me her David Yarmin ring to shoot. It's beautiful, to begin with, but has lots of interesting details - the facets of the stone, the twists in the ring itself, and the detail around the stone.

The Setup

Of course, the camera body was my Canon 60D, and I mounted it on a Manfrotto tripod. Next I mounted the Canon 40mm f/2.8 prime lens, and a 20mm extension tube because my subject was small, and wanted it to fill the frame. Next, I mounted my Canon 430EX II flash with the Cactus v5 triggers on a second tripod, and affixed a 8" snoot to focus the light very tightly. The flash was set to 1/64 power, and a 108mm beam.

The Photos

Oops ! See the orange tinge in the stone and the setting ? That's a reflection off of my t-shirt ! I only noticed it after I started processing the photos. This will never do...

 

 

This one is better. But if you look carefully at the bottom right of the stone, you can see my shadow outlined ! Sigh - another decent photo ruined by an accidental reflection. Next !

 

This picture is pleasing to the eye - no reflections, nice Depth of field, and an interesting composition. I also like how the facets of the cut stone show up, and the position of the flash helps draw out the detail of the mount.

 

 

 

Lessons Learned

As the first two photos illustrate, I must remember to get OUT of my own photos ! Being aware of one's surroundings, and how they might affect the photograph, are of paramount importance to the budding photographer.

 

Project365 - Depth of Field

Introduction
In a previous post, I remarked that there IS such a thing as too much Depth of Field (DoF). I thought it detracted to the composition of the photographs. But then I wondered if I could turn that detraction into an advantage. To me, it seemed to be a good thing to experiment with ! So tonight's Project365 entry is about my experiments with Depth of Field.

The Setup

This was a little bit more complex. Of course, the camera body was my Canon 60D, and I mounted it on a Manfrotto tripod. Next I mated the camera body with my Canon 40mm f/2.8 prime lens, and used a 20mm extension tube. My subject was tiny, and wanted it to fill the frame. Next, I mounted my Canon 430EX II flash with the Cactus v5 triggers on a second tripod, and affixed a 8" snoot to focus the light very tightly. The flash was set to 1/64 power, and a 108mm beam.

The Photos

I shot a great number of test shots, attempting to dial in the settings. These are a sampling of some of the more interesting ones.

Here is one of the early photos of the set. You'll note how shallow the DoF is - not even the length of the tines of the fork ! I like the overall effect, but not the lighting or the background.

 

I turned the fork over, hoping to achieve a more interesting look. The farthest tine is sharply in focus, while the nearest is blurry. I still don't like the background !



 

THIS is more the effect I was hoping for ! The ends of the tines are in focus, and by placing the fork on a white plate, the background loses importance. Best, the blurriness increases as the eye travels down the tines.

 

 

 

Lessons Learned

After about two dozen shots, I started to achieve the look I was after. But it proved that I can use Depth of Field as an artistic part of the composition. Something I wouldn't have understood yesterday !